05/06/2011 The Buachailles, Part 1 North Buttress (West Route)

According to the guide book, this is the original summer line up the buttress and the second route on the Buachaille.

Finally! Weather OK. This one has been on the "to-do" list for a couple of years so following the path from the car park across the foot of the hill we eventually ended up at the burn that flows down Great Gully. From here we headed for two large boulders that sit on a small shoulder and mark the point where the route starts. They are an easily recognisable landmark so even we couldn't go wrong.

The guidebook grades it as Moderate/Grade 3(s) scramble (s for serious, I think). If you follow the fault line up the centre of the buttress then it goes at about Difficult.

Climbingbuddy (Cb) was in Spain climbing hardstuff recently and I hadn't climbed anything properly since November. However, Cb injured her arm/shoulder and her ankle wasn't too clever either. This was starting to have the makings of a really good old school EPIC.

on the way up

We donned harnesses at the boulders and made our way up the crappy scree to the foot of the route proper. Then Cb stumbled and tweaked her shoulder. Quick conference - 2 options

1. Turn back before it all goes horribly wrong.
2. Press on in Captain Scott style but take the easier option of Moderate.

Option 2 it was.

The first pitch looked OK so Cb went first - any problems get some gear in and I'd lower her off. Things went well so the first pitch was cut short to 30 meters. I led through and on another 30 meters to where the break out right option is available. I set up a belay and Cb came up confident that things were now OK. Cb's pitch and it was a detour out to the right and up about 10m then work back left to regain the bottom of a right slanting line.

Cb in the chimney line about to break right

After standing for what seemed a rather long time the radio crackled and said (I summarise and paraphrase)- "boulder come off", "bit of a fright", "havin a fag", "gie's a minute".

I waited.

Eventually, I got the good news and climbed up to the next belay to find

blood!!!!!!!

Cb on her 2nd? 3rd? fag but just a flesh wound.

bad rock

I was able to establish through the tears and snotters that Cb had tied onto a seemingly solid rock and then that rock detatched itself without warning from the mountain. Must have been a wee bit of a fright then. The rock had fallen onto the sling wrapped round it and very nearly severed it. Good job it missed the rope eh?

looking down

From that point on we both became a bit paranoid as every big rock seems suspect but in truth only a couple were dodgy.

I led the next pitch and immediately committed a schoolboy error. I placed 2 solid runners and then moved left creating rope drag and restricting myself so much that I had to belay halfway up the next pitch and ask Cb if she could lead through coz I is stoopid.

I enjoyed the view while an adult did some proper climbing.

looking across the Devil's staircase to the Mamores

The angle had eased off and I suspected we were nearing the top of the route, I stayed attached to the rope and walked round to the right for a look then moved back left. I had reached what I have now learned is the "High ledge" so the climbing was over. Radio'd Cb to come up and we packed the gear away but left harnesses on just in case.

The next bit of the ridge was just a scamble, ironically on the best rock we'd had yet, dry, solid and lots of friction. A wee while later and we were on the summit - no one else in sight.

Apologies for the poor photos, the camera on my phone is crap. A good day out.